So when I first got the GSW, I knew that I was going to accessorize
the bike. Not completely overboard. Just enough to be
safe and also match what was done on the R12R and F8GS. When I
went to search for a small fuse box on Amazon, several models came
up. I've always used the Centech AP-1. When you install
the Centech, you have to your own up stream fuse in addition to a
relay. It's not a big deal, but it's added work. Through
a bunch of surfing I came across a new fuse box. What do we
have here... it's called "Fuzeblocks". It even has a
built in relay. Nice. All that needs done is to strip
the wire housing and plug it in. That's simple enough.
So I bought one for around $80.
I slap the unit in and wire it up. Not bad. Definitely
time saved. No soldering is a plus. It's all good until
2 things:
I power it on for the first time
I blow the first fuse
When I power the unit on for the first time, I can't help but hear a
high pitch electrical whirling sound. In fact, it sounds like
"Dar she blows!" The noise gets louder with more current
flowing through, but fortunately the noise is just that...
Noise. The box never blew its top. It's still
disconcerting that a fuse box would make so much noise. I
guess it's a sign that it's working. Then again, I can also
tell when the electronics turn on when I hit the power button.
Justification of a questionable device? Possibly.
When I blew the first fuse, I was confronted with inconvenience
after inconvenience. To change the fuse I have to unscrew and
remove the cover. Just an annoyance, but still... The
real problem started when I had to pull a fuse. The size of
the fuse make them near impossible to pull by hand.
Additionally, the amount of connector friction didn't help
either. It feels more like these fuses were permanent.
In the end I got the fuse off but not without bending the connector
on the board. How many more times can I bend and re-bend these
connectors before metal fatigue takes hold and the connector(s)
completely snap off? I don't want to figure that out. I
even went as far as buying a micro fuse puller to help in the
effort, but this only helps with the extraction and not the
install. I bent the connector when I pull the fuse. Now
I bend the connectors again when I'm installing a fuse. This
can't be food. These micro fuses are not what they're cracked
up to be. Comparing the standard car square fuse with the
micro fuse, I don't see a real benefit to the smaller size.
Now if I'm using these fuses in an RC car or helicopter, that would
make more sense. It's cramped in an RC car and Heli.
Motorcycles not so much.
In the end I had enough. I went back to Amazon and purchased
the good old Centech AP-1. I entertained the idea of the
Centech AP-2, but I didn't care for the direct to battery connectors
that bypasses the relay. Additionally, there are fewer relay
connectors vs. direct battery connectors due to the bank split.
After 1 1/2 years of using the Fuzeblocks, it's time it goes into
the parts bin. Probably never to be used again. Yes I
procrastinated.
Transitioning over to the Centech AP-1.
With a bit of crimping, soldering, and heat shrink tubing, the AP-1
is installed and works without any whirling noise. Go figure.
Completed wiring with relay installed.
Easily accessible.
Not only that, I can access the fuses without having to take the
cover off. Look mah! Just one hand and no tools
needed. It goes to show that it's better to keep things
simple. This is one ocassion where I have to say, "New is not
necessarily better."
Written on: December 26, 2014
Last modified: December 26, 2014
