Wunderlich Micro Flooter light Page 2


Well, the BMW accessory plug kit finally came.  Here is the part you're really looking for.  Make sure this is the one you get or you're getting when purchasing your own Wunderlich Micro Flooter Light kit.



Here is what comes in the kit





Now it is time to prep the bike for installing this Accessory Plug Kit.  It is not hard to install the plug.  The only real hassle is removing the gas tank to get at the electronics underneath it.  If your bike already has the accessory plug installed on it, you can skip this page and go on to the third instructions for installing the Wunderlich light kit itself.

...

So here we are, after a week of time off goofing around on the computer not doing much except for playing freecel.  It is time to go back to work.  I rode the GS to work on Tuesday January 3rd, 2006 and guess what ... I'm down to less than 1/3 of a tank by the time I get home from work.  It's time get off my fat bee-hind and install the accessory plug kit and the lights.

The thought of having to pull the tank still kind of put me off but it turns out it's a lot easier than you think.  If I can do it, you can do it too.  So here we go...

The idea here is to install the accessory plug at the front of the bike.  BMW gives you the accessory plug at the back of the bike, but it won't do you any good all the way back there for a set of light at the front.  First thing's first.  I pull both panniers off, and remove the side fairings exposing the fuel lines connected to the fuel tank.







I then remove the pillion and driver seat and disconnect the negative power lead from the battery.  A minor warning, when you disconnect the battery, the computer will loose all trip mileage information.  The trip odometer will be reset to 0.






How many possible vantage point can I show this and would you think
the red arrow point to the negative power lead?

BTW, a 10mm open wrench will easily remove the nut for the battery lead.  Actually, I can't emphasize enough to disconnect the proper power lead.  Next up, removing the lower side panel around the driver's knee area.




Left knee panel removed.




Right knee panel removed.

Now we remove the cap for fuel pump.





Here is where I have to hand it to BMW for being so awesome about how they designed the motorcycle.  The fuel lines have a quick release mechanism.  Not a clamp on a rubber hose.  It's so easy to disconnect the fuel lines it's not even funny.  Even my grandmother can do it.  The two power connects have a small locking tab on the inside of the connector.  All you have to do is use your finger nail to pull them out a little.  A minor pull up on the connectors have them popping off without problems.  Make sure to have a rag handy when you disconnect the fuel line.  In my case it was only a couple of drops of fuel.  Very minor.




I left the rag on the fuel pump but really, there wasn't a lot of fuel coming out.
It's there to serve as ambiance.  Like I know what I'm doing.  Actually, I do.

I can hear it already ... your thinking ... smart ass.  Next I remove the fuel line, fuel over flow, and fuel venting hoses from the tank.  Once again, the fuel line has a quick release button.  Too cool!!!





Again, there is a little fuel coming out of the line but not much.  The rag definitely took care of it.  With the next two hoses I decided to be anal and put things back exactly the way I disconnected them.  So I went ahead and label them with some scotch tape and a permanent marker.  It took a little more effort to pull the hoses because they were in there pretty good.  I ended using a flat head screw driver to push the hoses while I pulling them at the same time.  This was quite effective and didn't damage the hoses.




Everything is completely off.  Again the rag is there for ambiance.

Next thing to do is to remove the bolts holding the tank to the chassis (5mm hex wrench).  You also have to remove two small torx nuts  (T25) that connects the fairings together at the top of the bike.

Here is the right side gas tank bolt and it's removal.




The bolt holding the tank to the chassis is removed.


The removed tank mount bracket.


The left side tank bolt to remove.


Bolt and spacer removed.

Note: when putting these bolts back in to re-install the tank.  Both left and right side will require 19 NM torque tightening values.


There are two of these T25 nuts that you have to remove.  One on each side.
Note: these screws will require 9 NM torque values when re-installing the tank.

After that it's a matter of lifting the gas tank up a little from the driver's position and then pulling the tank towards the back of the bike.  Pop goes the weasel ... you now have the gas tank in your hands.  Set it gently somewhere on the ground out of the way.



Here's how the bike looks without a gas tank.  I definitely can't ride it very far in this condition.





Now that the tank is off, we address the installation of the Accessory Plug.  One thing I did do opposite of the instructions.  I drilled the hole for the accessory plug after I removed the tank.  The original BMW instructions suggest doing this before removing the tank.  Why was I ass backwards?  It has to do with the location where the plug is suppose to go.  If you grab the top of the fairing where the plug is suppose to go, you'll feel the outline of a circle where the plug is suppose to go on the bottom.  My thought was I can have a better look and feel where that ring was if the tank was off.  If you want to drill the hole for the plug before removing the tank, that would be fine.  As for me, everything still worked out even though I did things out of phase.  Below are images of where I drilled the hole.  BTW, one good tool to have handy is a small round file.  It does a great job of trimming the plastic fairing and doesn't damage the finish.

It's also a good idea to put a plastic cover over your bike where you're going to drill and file down the plastic.  It can get awfully messy.








You can see all of the debris on the plastic cover.

Ok, here's the deal.  What you need to do once you're finished with drilled the hole and installed the plug, you will need to find the on board accessory plug toward the rear of the bike and patch the new accessory cable that came with the accessory plug kit.  Here are some picture of where the existing accessory plug is located.


The plug connector is right underneath where the red arrow is pointing.


You have an idea of where this is located from the big fat charcoal cannister.

Here is the accessory plug cable attached to the accessory plug connect toward the back of the bike.





You're essentially splicing into the existing accessory plug connector and extending the accessory cable.

Routing the cable to the front is a bit of a pain.  You want to avoid running the cable on the outside of the bike frame and will want to follow existing cables and cable trays to keep things nice and neat.  You can see all the zip ties that are used to keep the cable in place.  All the zip ties that haven't been trimmed are the ones I put in place.  It gives you an idea of where to route the cable.  BTW, it looks a lot worse than it really is.







Here is a closer look at all the zip ties.










Make sure to tie the cable but still have a little slack to allow for steering freedom.

Of course the last thing to do is to connect the cable to the accessory plug at the front.

If all you're doing is installing the BMW Accessory Plug Kit, you're done.  All you have to do now is reverse the steps taken to remove the gas tank and you now have a GS with an accessory plug at the front.  This will be good for the navigation system, or whatever else you want to run off of the bike's power.

*** WARNING ***  The throttle cable doesn't have a lot of slack to it.  Make sure it's free of obstruction and can move easily when the handle bar is push to its limits towards the left and right.  Also, you'll want to make sure the throttle connector at the engine end is not loose and is solidly attached.  If the cable appears a little loose, push the rubber cover up the throttle cable to expose the throttle cable connector and push the connector into it's housing.  If you hear a click, it's secure and you can push the rubber cover back on.  You will also want to verify this end of the connector didn't come loose once the tank is on and bolted to the chassis.  There's nothing like having your engine rev as you make an extreme turn to the left.  Again, I recommend you double, triple, if not quadruple check to make sure the throttle cable is free of obstructions when the tank is back on.



If you're looking at this information to install a Wunderlich flood light kit, you need to go to the next page (Page 3) to complete your Wunderlich light kit installation.

As for me, yes ... I'm off to see the wizard of OZ (installing the Wunderlich flood light kit) so I can have a brighter future at night.  Off to page 3 I go.

Page 1, Page 3


Written on: Dec 23, 2005
Last updated: Jan 4, 2006